Ruby Tandoh has just published her magnificent guide to ice cream in London on the Vittles substack. It's a real labour of love.
You can read the first of FOUR parts here without a subscription:
The Vittles Ice Cream Project, by Ruby Tandoh
vittles.substack.com
EDIT: On London-based food critics:
- Jay Rayner** -- annoying, smug nepo baby, lefty chauvinist, with Monroe-esque thin skin & tendency to snark, to be avoided at parties
- Grace Dent***** -- best for a late-nite gossip sesh, after the punters have gone and the staff take over the dining room for drinks and a spliff
- Jimmy Famurewa**** -- too cool for school guy, probably lovely but seems too multi-talented not to be intimidating at the book signing (https://www.waterstones.com/author/jimi-famurewa/3284258)
- Faye Maschler**** -- intimidating and patrician, only to be admired from across the room while peaking over the top of the menu
- Tom Parker-Bowles*** -- ultimate nepo baby, seems harmless enough in a shaggy labrador kind of way, posh enough to be relatively decent and comfortable in his own skin
- Giles Coren* -- another nepo baby, with obnoxious, misogynistic entitlement and contrarian tendencies for clicks, avoid being in the same postcode if possible
- Jonathan Demario Nunn**** -- geeky food obsessive, might be a fascinating raconteur OR a pub bore who insists on giving the full run-down of every sandwich to be found within a 3-mile radius whether you want it or not
(*---***** = Tattle's version of the Michelin star ranking method)