First car advice

New to Tattle Life? Click "Order Thread by Most Liked Posts" button below to get an idea of what the site is about:
Hi Tattlers, I've been doing a bit of Googling on this subject but thought I'd come here instead for some straight forward advice.

I got a new job a few weeks ago where I will need a car to get to the head office when the lockdown in the UK is lifted. I passed my test and Pass Plus course about 9 years ago but never needed to buy a car as I always lived in city centers, so I haven't driven in ages. My questions are:

1) What are everyone's recommendations for a first car, and is there anything I should look out for when buying a second-hand car?

2) Is it best to pay for the car itself all in one go or in monthly installments? This new role is mat leave cover, with the potential to maybe get made permanent. I'm worried
that if I pay for the car in monthly installments but don't get kept on for the job, I'll be paying monthly for a car I don't need. However, paying all in one go is very expensive.

3) Is it best to pay for car insurance all in one go, or monthly? I've read it's cheaper if you pay all in one go annually 🤔 but again, this is pretty expensive.

4) Does anyone have any experience on doing refresher driving courses after not driving for a long amount of time? Did you found it came back to you fairly quickly?

Thank you in advance for any help! Much appreciated 😊
 
You could email or phone local instructors to ask about a refresher course . Or wait until you get your own car and ask someone you know to take you out .

Try looking for cars you like the look of and get insurance quotes and it should give you both monthly and annual prices .

There are used cars to suit all kinds of budget. Whether you pay cash outright for an older car or look into finance or a bank loan .

It is generally thought that smaller, small engines less powerful cars are best for first cars , but I've known people who have found something bigger/ more sporty no more costly to insure.

Corsas, fiestas and fiat 500s tend to be popular for first cars and there are plenty of them on the market. But then again , cars are down to individual preference, and there is so much to choose from.

There are reviews of cars online so you can read up about them before you look at them
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Paying for anything monthly rather than outright will usually cost more in the long run as they will add interest.

However some places will offer 0% APR as they want the sale. Although being a cash buyer will normally give you some bargaining power on the price.

Some insurance companies like Aviva plus (not aviva's standard policies) don't charge for paying monthly and there are no fees for amending etc.

If you are in the UK then driving instructors can't work at the moment so it might be hard to get refresher lessons when they are allowed to work again, as they will be prioritising customers who will be paying for lots of hours etc. Might be easiest if you can go out with a friend or family (do you have a bubble you could go out with?) Even just driving to the supermarket as that would still be an essential journey

I'm sure it will be like riding a bike!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I would recommend getting a second hand car for your first car if possible. It won’t matter if you dent it here or there, as it’s yours at the end of the day. (Also as you say your job is Mat cover so wouldn’t leave you with monthly payments if the worst happened). When looking at used cars if you see one that is quite cheap just check it hasn’t been involved in an accident previously as could be dangerous/not road safe etc... https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.carbuyer.co.uk/tips-and-advice/114820/cat-d-cars-insurance-write-offs?amp

PCP finance works out cheaper monthly but you can be charged massively at the end of the contract if you have damage in or outside the car/excess mileage etc.

HP finance works out slightly more per month but you get to keep the car at the end of the term.

Most finances require you to have fully comp insurance too, it usually works out cheaper to pay annually and as the post above says unless certain insurers state otherwise. Insurance is usually cheaper the smaller the engine too.

If you look to finance, most dealerships want a deposit too (unless they have offers on) so either way you might be paying a lump sum upfront.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3
Car wise, my advice is do not get an old banger type. I had a serious crash 9 years ago with a lorry and a van, I was in a fiat 500. I was hit by the van which sent me veering into the side of the lorry at 70, I hit between the wheels, car flipped and I went back across the road upside down where I stopped. Now my car was written off but the seat areas looked as though nothing had happened because the car had done its job and protected me properly. The only injury I had was a broken arm from the impact because you are meant to take your hands off the steering wheel not grip on like I did. My car saved my life, the police said that type of accident in an older car could of easily been fatal. So yeah highly recommend fiat 500 they have like 11 airbags I think.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: 5
Car wise, my advice is do not get an old banger type. I had a serious crash 9 years ago with a lorry and a van, I was in a fiat 500. I was hit by the van which sent me veering into the side of the lorry at 70, I hit between the wheels, car flipped and I went back across the road upside down where I stopped. Now my car was written off but the seat areas looked as though nothing had happened because the car had done its job and protected me properly. The only injury I had was a broken arm from the impact because you are meant to take your hands off the steering wheel not grip on like I did. My car saved my life, the police said that type of accident in an older car could of easily been fatal. So yeah highly recommend fiat 500 they have like 11 airbags I think.
The more security features a car has the cheaper it will be to insure too.

I just got a brand new Ford puma, much faster than my fiesta I had previously and a more expensive car, but because it has automatic breaking, pre collision assist etc. It is cheaper to insure.

I would do a few quotes for cars you have seen on auto trader or similar to get an idea on prices. Just put that you haven't bought the car yet at the beginning. You might be surprised by the results
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Great thread - i havent driven in years as well so will need to look at refresher stuff. Hoping to get driving next year when finances are more settled.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I would look around at dealerships and see what offers they have. Some do 0% finance. My car is on PCP, so I pay monthly for 4 years and then either swap or buy outright after that. I've never done it before, but I would again.

Personally I think a newer second hand one would be best. I only ever bought my first car privately when I was 17, so can't really advise on that.

ETA. Seats are very popular where I live (partly to do with an excellent dealership), but a pretty good cars. An Ibiza would be a good size.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I was in a similar boat a couple of years ago, in terms of needing a car and some refresher lessons. The lessons I needed were specifically so I could build my confidence on the motorway but ended up being all round refresher lessons too. I found it came back really quickly, and in fact the instructor was happy for me to finish before I was!

I got a second-hand 2016 Corsa for just over £5k (including a two year warranty from the garage). If you can buy outright or with 0% finance then do (I put my deposit on a 0% credit card for the consumer protection, and put my insurance on there too so I could repay it over 12 months but still have the annual price). I ended up upping my budget from £3k to £5k so I could get something newer, the theory being that it should last longer! I would definitely recommend going through a dealership but be firm on your maximum price. I found it was a balance between newness/mileage/price.

The other thing I considered in picking a car was the annual tax - Corsas are £30 a year unlike my partner’s Mazda which is £120 a year even though they are very similar cars in size and drive 😬. There are other “first car” type cars that are very low tax which you can google - I think it’s fiestas and things like that.
 
  • Heart
Reactions: 1
I’ve also just returned to driving after 10 years off and had a mixed experience with lessons although would recommend booking a couple. I think it highly depends on the instructor and sadly the one I had for my original test retired long ago! In summary I am glad I had them, I actually only ended up having three lessons before lockdown 3 and haven’t driven much since because I haven’t needed to go anywhere. Confidence comes with practice and it helps massively if you’re familiar with the roads etc (I’m not and still get nervous driving round my city as I don’t know it very well).
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I had a 2003 Nissan Micra as my first car and loved it. Also recommend Honda Jazz - both of them drive like a little toy car, very easy to drive, cheap to maintain and reliable
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I would say buy a car with a small engine because it's cheaper to insure and run. But because you've technically had a licence for 9 years I suppose you won't have the young/inexperienced driver premium on your insurance other people would have driving their first car. Though you won't have any no claims bonus to reduce the premium. So the smaller engine size would still be a benefit in that regard.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I’m hoping to get a car this year (if I can do my theory and driving test..!) and I’m looking at a Citroen c1. Cheap to run and ideal for a first car.
 
  • Heart
Reactions: 1
I have a Fiat panda, although it’s not my first car I think it would be a great first car to have. It’s small but still goes along quickly and is very efficient on fuel.
I agree with other posters about buying a car with a small engine.

If you buy second hand through a private seller, make sure you ask to see all paperwork, including service history. My dad and I thought my first car was in good condition because it’s mileage was very low for its age, but I spent nearly as much money fixing it in the 18 months I had it. Take someone with you if possible who knows about cars and knows what questions to ask to check it Is actually in the condition the seller says it is.

It is worth looking at dealerships and seeing what deals they can give you for a nearly new second hand car. Mine was less than a year old when I bought it with less than 4000 miles on the clock, it was a lot cheaper than buying a brand new car.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I have always bought through dealerships so have no experience of buying privately. Autotrader is really useful because they will let now you know the market value of the car in the advert.

As mentioned above, I would probably recommend buying nearly new for less depreciation, but if you do want a brand new car there are lots of affordable leasing deals. I know Peugeot for example offer a Just Add Fuel scheme where providing you are over 18 you can lease a new car affordably and they will cover insurance.

If you are after a city car the Citroen C1/Peugeot 108/Toyota Aygo are essentially the same car, so there are lots of examples of them and lots of them are well-specced. There's also the Volkswagen Up!/Seat Mii/Skoda Citigo, which are again the same car, and should prove reliable, but only the Up! is still in production, the Mii is now electric-only so pricey in that variant. The Hyundai i10 and Kia Picanto have great reviews as well, and long warranties.

If you are after something bigger, a Ford Fiesta or Vauxhall Corsa will be popular choices, I would tend to be drawn more to the Fiesta. Volkswagen Polo is a good option too, but will be pricey. If you are after something more reliable I would be looking at a Mazda 2 or Toyota Yaris, a Nissan Micra would also be a good shout and is affordable.
 
  • Like
  • Heart
Reactions: 3
Have a look on carwow.co.uk I’ve used them and you can usually save a few thousand pounds. If you find some cars you like and put in a quote, different dealerships near you will come back to you with their best offers so you can compare prices from different dealerships easily.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I would say buy a car with a small engine because it's cheaper to insure and run. But because you've technically had a licence for 9 years I suppose you won't have the young/inexperienced driver premium on your insurance other people would have driving their first car. Though you won't have any no claims bonus to reduce the premium. So the smaller engine size would still be a benefit in that regard.
This isn't true at all, a smaller engine doesn't make it cheaper to insure or run. My 1.6 is cheaper to insure than my 1l and only does about 5mpg less when I'm doing a bit of spirited driving otherwise they both get +50mpg, both petrol engines. Insurance is based on the car make and model, not the engine size.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1
This isn't true at all, a smaller engine doesn't make it cheaper to insure or run. My 1.6 is cheaper to insure than my 1l and only does about 5mpg less when I'm doing a bit of spirited driving otherwise they both get +50mpg, both petrol engines. Insurance is based on the car make and model, not the engine size.
Totally correct.

Safety features and how easy it is steal are big factors in premium prices too.

Parkers guide tells you the insurance group for each car. The lower the number the cheaper it is to insure.

You then have your personal risk factors such as age, where you live, where the car will be stored, your occupation etc that will all affect your premium.

Best advice I can give is don't lie about how many miles you will be doing and if you will be commuting then make sure you pay for social, domestic, pleasure and commuting. I worked in insurance claims for years and saw many people get caught out with these lies
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2
This isn't true at all, a smaller engine doesn't make it cheaper to insure or run. My 1.6 is cheaper to insure than my 1l and only does about 5mpg less when I'm doing a bit of spirited driving otherwise they both get +50mpg, both petrol engines. Insurance is based on the car make and model, not the engine size.
I think it used to be the case once.

I tend to find there is more difference between quotes from different providers for the same car than there is between little run around cars and more powerful ones.
 
I’m hoping to get a car this year (if I can do my theory and driving test..!) and I’m looking at a Citroen c1. Cheap to run and ideal for a first car.
My daughter had a Toyota Aygo and it was a brilliant first car. It was like driving a little roller skate and great fun. A few of her friends has Fiat 500's and found them to be totally underpowered to the point of not being able to get up steep hills!

When buying a car don't go down the route of thinking older means cheaper. There are so many options on new or newer cars it is unbelievable. There is also the option of leasing cars which means you can often get a really nice car for a reasonable monthly amount and it will include things like road tax. Obviously if you don't want to committ to monthly payments then it's not the right option.

One piece of advice I was given years ago when was not to buy an old banger because new drivers or learner driver need all the safety features you find in newer cars the most.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2